Initial Thoughts: KONUS PRO M30 10X-40X52MM

Wow, how far can I see with my new telescope? Yesterday was a first for me.  I came home from work and there, on my coffee table, was a brand new scope that I didn't pay for (yet).

The Konus Pro M30 10X-40X52mm is HUGE measuring just a bit over 18 inches without the 4 inch sunshade attached.  As noted above it also has a huge amount of magnification.  I'll be the first to admit that I am a fan of high magnification, but there are pros and cons to it like everything. With higher magnification comes a bit slower target acquisition, but better visibility down range.  When Travis asked me to choose what scope I'd like to review I found the highest magnification available from Konus.  Why not, I have a 300 win. mag. just waiting to be stretched out.

As mentioned the scope comes with a sunshade.  Also, included with the optic are two flip up lens covers, allen wrench for resetting the turrets, a spare battery for the illuminated reticle, and an owners manual.  At first glance the owners manual seems to be the length of Leo Tolstoy's War and Peace, but as it turns out they included a translation for a total of ten languages... Greek anyone?  The English section is only about four pages and is fairly concise.  It covers your basic functions, has a diagram that explains all the measurements of the milliradian (Mil) reticle, and a conversion chart from MOA to Mils.

The 10X-40 is pretty feature heavy, most obvious are the tall locking-target turrets.  The turrets are 1/10th Mil. adjustments, have a very noticeable click when turned, and feel very solid.  The locks aren't sleek by any means, but they lock solidly preventing any rotation.  On the left side of the scope is a parallax adjustment knob that adjusts from 10 yards to infinity.  The parallax knob turns smoothly without any detents to indicate what range the focus is being adjusted to.  I don't feel this is a big issue since the shooter is going to adjust this in and out until the target is in focus regardless of what the dial says.  There is also a locking "fast-focus" adjustment on the eyebell to sharpen the appearance of the reticle.  Just in front of the eyebell there is an illumination knob offset at 45 degrees.  There are two illumination colors, red and blue, each color has five brightness levels. The magnification adjustment like all the others seems very smooth from 10x-40x. On the outside the scope seems to be very well constructed and has an even matte black finish.  It is nitrogen filled, and shockproof so it should do fine on larger caliber rifles.

The glass is very clear, multi-coated, and fog proof.  This is a second focal plane scope, meaning that the reticle is in the second lens, not the first.  What that means is that the measurements on the mildot reticle are only accurate at a certain power of magnification.  Typically that is at the highest power magnification.  The illuminated mildot portion of the reticle is 10 Mils in diameter.  The dots measure 0.2 Mils, from dot center to dot center measures 1 Mil.  Outside of the 10 Mil. area the stadia are heavy and solid, measuring 18.3 Mils.  So if you are doing the math the reticle is a total of 46.6 Mils in diameter.  Just below the reticle in the shooters field of view is an internal bubble level.  This is a big plus allowing the shooter to correct any canting without having to change position.  At first glance the internal level is pretty hard to see, but I haven't mounted the scope yet so it could be my eye relief, nor have I looked through the scope outside in the sun.

During the review period this scope will be mounted on a Savage model 111 chambered in 300 winchester magnum.  I'll also be doing a review on the rifle soon.  I'll be looking for a few specific things as I review the Konus.  One is light transmission.  Being that this scope has such a long body it could decrease the amount of light transmitted back to the shooters eye.  The 52mm bell and 30mm tube should help though.  Eye relief is an area that I seem to have issues with, and at 3.44 inches of eye relief on this scope should be pretty good.  I'll also be checking the accuracy of the elevation and windage adjustments on the turrets, and parallax adjustment.  My goal is to find a scope that will allow me to shoot long distances, 1000 yards plus, without breaking the bank.  The MSRP on this particular scope is about $750, however, I was able to find it on Amazon for $400.  I am looking forward to mounting this scope and seeing what I can do with it in the coming weeks.

 

Some Quick Thoughts: Windham Weaponry .308 SRC

Yesterday I picked up the Windham Weaponry .308 SRC from my FFL, to say that I was stoked to get my hands on it would be an understatement. I was impressed by the rifle and it's quality at SHOT Show and have been looking forward to getting some range time with one since then.

The first thing I noticed out of the case (which the rifle comes with a rifle case which is better than a cardboard box) was the quality of the finish, it was very clean and the parts all looked to be good quality. It comes with a Houge rubber pistol grip instead of the standard plastic one, which is a nice upgrade. The other nice addition to the rifle is the fact that it comes with a 20 round PMag instead of the standard metal magazine.

The gas block is rail height which is awesome since you won't have to worry about purchasing a "gas block height" front sight, instead you can use your standard height sights. I know this was one issue I had with some other uppers I have picked up before and it sucks when you end up having to buy a special front sight to line everything up.

The trigger is nothing special, but it is smooth for a mil spec trigger. One thing that I found interesting is that they went with a flat trigger guard instead of a winter style. This isn't really that big of a deal I just found it different.

The first thing I did was toss on my Vortex Viper HS 2.5-10x44 when I got the rifle home, and it just gave the rifle the right look.

I am really looking forward to getting this rifle out to the range and seeing how well it performs and getting some video of it being run. Make sure to subscribe to the email listing so you can receive the latest updates on posts, and also subscribe to the YouTube channel.

SHOT Show Initial Thoughts- Caracal CS308

As many of you have seen we posted up a picture of the new Caracal CS308 which was introduced during SHOT Show 2014 Media Day at the Range, and as I am sure those who have been following us and reading or watching our reviews will know I am not a bolt gun guy. However there have been 2 Bolt Guns that I have handled over the past year that have made me want to get one, the first being the Texas Customs Rifle .308 and now the Caracal CS308.

The Caracal CS308 uses a very interesting skeleton frame design, and the stock offers a variety of positions for the shooter to choose from which in turn makes it a very comfortable rifle to shoot. The muzzle break that is installed makes a huge difference in the amount of muzzle flip and felt recoil, you just don't want to be standing at 45* on either side of it because it creates a massive concussive force.

When I got behind the rifle I was surprised at how comfortable it felt and how smooth the bolt is. The bolt system that they use is a 3 Lug System which locks up much tighter that the standard bolt design, and at the same time creates a smoother bullet loading system. On top of all of that the bolt slides like glass with very little effort.

The 2 stage trigger was nice, but I would probably have adjusted it more to my liking if I could have. When shooting the rifle it was evident right away that it was going to be very easy to shoot with, after taking the first shot and having very little recoil and muzzle rise all I could do was smile a little bit.

Looking forward to seeing this rifle when it releases on the market, and also looking forward to seeing how well it holds up given the prior issues Caracal has had with their pistols.

Quick Look: Infidel Body Armor

Awhile back we did some on camera shooting of the EnGarde Body Armor  Level III and IV Plates, we were new to doing reviews at the time and learned a lot. Well now we have the opportunity to run another test on a body armor plate thanks to Infidel Body Armor, they sent us one of their 10x12 Plates to use for test and eval.

The last time we did a body armor test we set the plates against a back stop, while that did give us a good idea of what the trauma would be like behind the plate we really couldn't see just how much. This time we are planning on setting blocks of clay behind the plate so we can get a good idea of just how much force is transferred rearward. We will also be checking for spalling since this plate is made of 1/4" AR500 steel with an anti spalling material layered over it.

Just some quick facts about the Infidel Body Armor plates, they are as stated above made from 1/4" AR500 steel and lined with 1/4" of anti spalling material. They are curved so they fit comfortably against the body, and the angled cut makes it easy to shoulder your rifle without setting it on the plate. Each plate weighs a little under 9 pounds, and is rated as a Level III Stand Alone plate.

We are really looking forward to getting some testing time with this plate and are excited to relay the information back to you our viewers. Make sure to check back for the written review and the video soon.

Quick Look: Kaw Valley Precision Linear Comp

Since we here at SpartanTC Reviews have been checking out so many different compensators over the past couple months we figured we would get our hands on a couple more to try out. Recently we contacted Kaw Valley Precision about their Linear Compensator, it was one that a few of you had asked about it, and I had actually seen it a few times while browsing around the internet. KVP was awesomely quick to get back with us and help get our hands on one to test out.

(The new SpartanTC Reviews AR outfitted with the Kaw Valley Precision Linear Comp)

For those who do not know what a linear compensator is here is an answer taken directly from KVP's website.

What is a Linear Compensator? 

A linear compensator is a muzzle device designed to collect and direct all the muzzle gases forward, away from the shooter.  Unlike other types of muzzle devices, KVP linear comps actually lower the decibel the shooter experiences while shooting the rifle. This lowered perceived decibel is especially noticeable in shorter barreled rifles while shooting high power rounds. 

When you first pick up the KVP Linear Comp you can tell right away that it is a solid piece of work, and won't be damaged easily. The machining is really clean on it, and the finish is really well done and seems like it will stand up to quite a bit of abuse.

If you take a close look at the KVP Linear Comp you will notice that the only holes that it has are pointing forward. While this gives it a very different look I am really looking forward to taking it out to the range and seeing how much "quieter" it is over the other comps we have used.

We are hoping to get the new SpartanTC Reviews Test AR out to the range very soon and get some video, along with our initial thoughts on shooting with this comp. Make sure to stay to keep checking back as there are lots of reviews in the works!

Strike Industries J-Comp

I recently had the opportunity to take the Strike Industries J-Comp out to the range and get some shooting in with it. I decided I would write down some of my initial thoughts on it before we head out to the range to do some more shooting with it.

 (Left to Right- 556 Tactical Stryker Comp, Strike Industries J-Comp, 556 Tactical StrykeHyde)

As you can see in the picture above the overall length of the SI J-Comp is slightly longer than the other two muzzle devices, however when it's installed it doesn't look awkward like some other comps I have used before.

One of the first things that you notice about it is the interesting design. It was designed after the Japanese Type 89 Assault Rifle muzzle device, so it is a unique comp to say the least.

The rear two ports are meant to reduce recoil and redirect the concussive force you get from a typical compensator, and the front ports are meant to reduce muzzle flash. This means that it should be the best of both worlds when it comes to reducing recoil while still aiding with hiding the flash. 

The reduction in the concussive force from my experience is not as good as some of the more expensive comps (such as the Lantac Dragon) but at the price point of $39.99 it does a decent job. It does create a dust signature to the sides of the muzzle when shooting prone but the amount of dust created isn't all that bad.

As far as reducing muzzle rise goes the J-Comp does a fair job, while I haven't tried shooting rapidly with it yet the comp does a pretty good job of controlling muzzle rise and allows you to get back on target quickly.

So far with the limited time I have spent with it I am not completely sold on it to the point that I would install it on all of my rifles. It is however well priced and a very well machined compensator, which does what it is advertised to do. Hopefully I will get the opportunity soon to take it out for some night shooting and we can see how well it hides the flash.

Make sure to check back for updates in the near future.

EPLowers Polymer Lower

A few weeks ago I had talked with Chris from www.EPLowers.com about the 80% polymer lowers that they are producing, he was really informative and helpful. He was awesome enough to engrave the SpartanTC81 logo into the lower, which made this already cool project even better in my eyes.

The reason that the EP Lowers can be finished using a Dremel and a drill, is that the firing control group pocket contains a white polymer. The idea behind it is to remove all of the white polymer from inside the pocket until you get to the solid black (or whichever color your lower is). Once you get to the solid color you will still have to remove some of the colored polymer to allow for the proper fit of the firing control group.

In the picture above you can see a good majority of the white polymer has been removed. Notice the black "bars" that are on the sides, these help you gauge where you are at while using the Dremel to remove the white polymer. They do disappear when you are close to the bottom and at that point it is important to take your time and watch for the final layer of white polymer to give way to the colored polymer below.

Above you can see that there are a lot of shavings from removing the white polymer. If you have access to a shop vac I highly suggest rigging it so that it will aide in the removal of the shavings while you are working.

As you get further down and the walls of the white polymer become thinner you can actually use a set of pliers to remove it.

Above you can see that the white polymer has given way to the black polymer below. You will also notice that the trigger hole will need to be milled/dremeled out to allow for the trigger to fit in. When you do this be careful not to remove too much or it will be possible for your springs to fall through the hole.

When drilling the holes for the trigger and hammer pins I highly suggest drilling straight through from one side to the other. The directions on EP Lowers site say to do them one side at a time, which I did and because I was doing it by hand the drill walked and ended up miss drilling the holes (this was my fault). I ended up with the left side holes sitting lower than the right side, and this lead to the hammer being off center, which lead to the trigger not releasing it. 

Also my selector hole was off, it still worked but was extremely stiff due to it being angled.

Even though I miss drilled the holes I was able to fill them with epoxy (double bubble extra strength epoxy) and drill from the right hand side. This straightened out the issues and will be strong enough to hold the pins and selector in place (however I chose to go with KNS anti walk pins just to make sure they won't move).

As for the quality of the lower, I cannot speak on the durability of it yet since I haven't had the opportunity to toss an upper on it and run it to the range; but it does have a solid feel. It has very little give compared to some of the other polymer lowers I have messed with before and the polymer has a nice feel to it. The "finish" of the polymer is clean and some people who have seen the pictures of the lower have actually mistaken it for a billet lower. 

Once I have a few hundred rounds on it at the range I will be writing a follow up post along with some videos of it performing at the range. I have no doubt that it will work just fine and will be a great range rifle.

Overall this was an awesome learning experience, it gave me a whole new appreciation for building a lower. If you like to tinker on your own firearms and are looking for a new project head on over to www.EPLowers.com and check out what they have to offer.

Strike Industries AK TRAX Rail System

I am sure that many of you have seen the video on the Strike Industries AK TRAX hand guard that I posted earlier in the week, for those of you who haven't I have imbedded it below.

I have been extremely happy with this hand guard so far, but then again the standard Saiga hand guard leaves you with absolutely no mounting options and honestly it looks just a bit weird since they "sporterized" it. So having the option to put a hand guard on that has quite a few different ways to mount rails is pretty awesome.

There are quite a few things to like about the AK TRAX, from the key mod rail system to the multiple mounting options for the hand guard itself. The overall quality is really good, there aren't any rough or sharp "unfinished" spots to be found, and the finish is also great quality.

So far I have had it on my AK for around 2 months and have used it on the range quite a few times, I figure it has been on for around 1,000 rounds so far. Like I mentioned in the video I did have an issue with the front mounting screws falling out because I didn't loctite them in place, but that was an easy fix thanks to the awesome customer service over at SI. Other than the one hiccup with losing the small screws there have been absolutely no other issues with this hand guard, the key mod rails mount nice and snug to it and do not loosen up during use; it has been great having the ability to run a flashlight and the gopro on the rifle.

If you are looking for a good hand guard to install onto your AK I would highly suggest taking a look at the info at www.StrikeIndustries.com.

I will be posting follow up reviews as time goes on so make sure to check back!

Lantac Dragon Compensator

Lantac USA recently announced the release of their Dragon Compensator for 5.56/.223 with plans to release a 30Cal version in the near future. They have done a great deal of hyping for the release of the 5.56 Dragon comp, so the question in my mind was "does it meet all of the hype?", and of course the only way to find out was to get my hands on one and take it out for some range time.

SPECIFICATION:

Caliber: 5.56X45mm / .223

Material: Super Hard Milspec Steel

Finish: Nitride QPQ

Dimensions: L: 2.570'', DIA: .870''

Weight: 3.2oz

Thread: 1/2-28 UNEF R/H

Serial Numbered for Quality Control

Made in the USA.

When you first catch sight of this compensator you immediately see a resemblance to the muzzle device of an AK-74, with the 4 top ports and the 3 sleek open ports on either side of it. It is one extremely nice looking compensator that just seems to scream that not only does it look good but it will perform just as nicely as it looks.

As soon as it was installed on the S&W M&P AR-15 the range began to call out to it, and once it was out on the range it answered that call.

Out of the handful of different compensators I have shot with over the past couple of years my biggest complaint was that each one of them when being used under the range cover rattled my brains and made my sinuses hurt. However this was not the case with the Lantac Dragon, instead of forcing the majority of the concussive force upwards in an effort to keep the muzzle down the majority of the concussive force was pushed foward and away from the shooter. This resulted in a much more pleasant shooting experience when under the range cover. 

Now even though the majority of the force is pushed out the sides and forward, it doesn't mean that the compensator was not effective at doing its job of keeping the muzzle from rising. Instead this was one of the flattest shooting compensators I have used, there was literally no muzzle rise after each shot; and to top it off the amount of felt recoil was also reduced. Pair the lack of muzzle rise with the reduced feel of recoil and you have the ability to quickly aquire your target.

At 100 yards using a Lucid Red Dot I was able to continually smack the 10" metal gong, and double taps were amazingly easy to control and still ring the gong. It brought a sense of controllability I have been looking for when it comes to using an AR and firing quickly.

Overall I was extremely impressed with the performance of the Dragon Compensator and cannot wait to get my hands on one for each of the AR builds that I am currently working on. 

If you have been looking for a great compensator to slap onto your AR, this is one that I highly suggest you look into.

You can preorder one through Harris Tactical using the following link.

http://www.harristacticalonline.com/Lantac-Dragon-556-Muzzle-Brake-LAN-DGN556B.htm

Iron Hammer Armory .300 Blackout Upper Review

A couple months back I started talking with Iron Hammer Armory about the AK's that they have been producing and also the line of AR's that they have been working on putting out. There have been a lot of conversations between Martin and myself and I have come to really appreciate the information that I get from him whenever I ask questions. So when I was asked if I would be up for testing and reviewing the IHA .300BLK complete upper I told them heck yes, I would love to get my hands on any AR upper to take out and test anytime I can.

When I picked up the upper from a friend's shop I was really impressed with the way that it looked, with the Stainless Steel Barrel coming out from under a black hand guard it has such a cool look to it. What I thought was really awesome was that the Hand Guard was from ODIN Works which is another company whose products I have heard great things about and had hoped at some point I would get to check out in person.

While I personally prefer a longer hand guard on my AR uppers the 9.5" that the IHA is outfitted with does give it a very clean look since it allows the SS barrel to really stand out. I took some time to field strip the upper and give it a good cleaning and applied FIREClean to it like I do with all of my other firearms (yes even when I do testing for companies I still give it a good clean before and after shooting), this gave me the chance to check out the workmanship that has gone into the building of this upper.

First thing that I noticed was that there was not a single blemish to be found inside and out, and the BCG was staked correctly and everything fit together really well. It was very noticeable that there was great pride taken in assembling the upper. The laser etching on the receiver and the charging handle is a very nice touch and adds some character to the overall build also.

The ODIN Works hand guard is very sleek and very comfortable to hold since it is smooth on the sides with one small section of rail on the bottom side at the front. The rail matches up perfectly with the receiver and gives it a nice continuous look. The overall construction of the ODIN Works hand guard is really good, while being lightweight it did not feel cheap or flimsy like it could break at any second. Just from the short amount of time that I have had with it I have decided I will be using one of their longer hand guards on one of my future builds.

When I was able to take the upper out to the range it was both too windy and too busy for me to be able to setup the cameras to capture any good videos of me firing it, there was also the issue of the wind blowing down the target stand that I was trying to use to zero it in. So finally I gave up and just aimed for the steel plate that we had setup down range. Even though the scope I was using was garbage I was able to figure out where to place the reticle to ring the steel, and once that was figured out I can tell you the steel just kept ringing. 

Every shot that I was sending down range was hitting it's intended spot, and even though I did not have a paper target to measure exactly how accurate this upper is, the side by side and stacked marks on the steel were enough for me to consider this an accurate barrel and with a properly sighted scope and a worked up hand load it should be hitting Sub MOA (I am not an expert marksman but I have shot both well made and crappy made barrels and this is well made). 

While the price for the upper is still up in the air until IHA is able to get the production of them moving I will say that it is a very nice upper with some very nice features, I am sure that the price will contend with many of the other companies that are building uppers, and even if it is a little higher the quality and craftsmanship that is put into it shows. Below you will find a graphic that has the breakdown of the parts used for this upper, all of the parts are nice quality parts that should give you a long happy service life from it.

I would like to thank Martin at Iron Hammer Armory for allowing me the opportunity to take this upper out to the range and check it out, this was the first time that I have been able to test a new product for a company before it's release and I am hoping that I will get the opportunity to do that more often.

Kies Adjustable Gas Block

There were quite a few different gas blocks that I had looked at when I started ordering parts for the Spartan build. I had decided that this build I wanted to do an adjustable gas block so I could really fine tune the rifle, and if sometime in the future I picked up a suppressor I would be able to adjust the settings to make the rifle function properly.

The Kies Firearms Adjustable Gas Block caught my eye when I was browsing through the parts section on Joe Bob Outfitters, it was in the price range that I was looking to spend and it had some pretty decent reviews on it. Oh and for those of you who have done gas rails before and hate the roll pin as much as I do, the Kies gas block uses an allen screw in it's place.

Being that I was using the the Midwest Industries Gen-2 SS hand guard I knew that the inner diameter was smaller than the normal hand guards that are out there and I was a little concerned that the two pieces wouldn't work together. So I contacted Joe Bob Outfitters and asked if they knew if the two would be compatible, and as always I received a quick response with a for sure answer that they would and I was good to go with my order.

When the package arrived 2 days later (I have always appreciated Joe Bob's quick shipping!) I pulled out all of the individual parts that I had ordered and checked them over to make sure that everything was there and nothing was damaged. When I came to the Kies gas block I checked it over really well and was very impressed with the quality and finish of it, especially for the lower end price tag that it had on it.

Installing it onto to my Rainier barrel was really easy, unlike some other blocks I have used in the past this one did not require any tapping with the brass hammer to get it into place. Another thing that I really liked about it was the allen set screw that was included to be used in place of the roll pin, let me tell you all this now, it is one of the smallest set screws I have ever messed with so be careful not to lose it if you get this gas block. Running the set screw in was probably one of the easiest things I did on this entire build, and once it's in it is not coming out. My Rainier barrel has a divot for where the set screw should set for the gas block, which made it very easy to get it into position and properly secured.

The first time I took the rifle out to the range I had to make the initial adjustment to the gas block, and the only problem I had was that the set screw for adjustments was behind my hand guard and there is no way to adjust it without removing the hand guard. Not really that big of a deal with as easy as the hand guard is to remove.

The first shot that I took the set screw was all the way in, the rifle fired but did not cycle which was expected. I backed the set screw out a turn and fired, the bolt cycled but only part of the way and did not lock back on the empty magazine. Again I made an adjustment but this time I took it out 3 turns, which was too much and slapped the bolt forward. At this point I was trying to figure out exactly how many turns I needed to go in, so I bottomed it out again and took it out 2 and a quarter turn, this was the ticket, everything functioned as advertised except for the ejector (which I discussed in the RGuns BCG post).

Since the first trip out I have run somewhere around 400 rounds down range with the rifle and have not had a single hiccup out of it. All of the set screws for the Kies Gas Block are still tight and in position, and I am looking forward to seeing how much abuse I can actually put this block through once ammo becomes available and affordable again.

If you are looking for a budget adjustable gas block make sure to add the Kies gas block to your list, I am happy with it so far and I will definitely use one on the .300 Blackout build I plan to do in the future.

MyGunDB Initial Review

I was recently contacted by Alan Ellis to check out and review a Firearms Database program that he created, called MyGunDB.  Of course I said yes.  I went to the website to see what the program was all about and to see what others have been saying about it.  The website is clean, simple to navigate, and provides basic info about the program, along with several screenshots to help you understand what the program itself looks like.  After browsing the site for several minutes, I was definitely intrigued.  I downloaded the full program and started exploring.

Here are my initial thoughts on MyGunDB:

First thing that I noticed about the program was how easy it is to navigate.  There is nothing complicated about it.  Everything is pretty self explanatory which is one thing that I always look for in new programs.  It only took me all of ten minutes to figure out what each tab did and how to enter and change information as I needed.

I started with the Firearm Data tab which has several sub tabs that allow you to put in a massive amount of information about each individual firearm that you own.  Details like brand, model, serial number, caliber all fall under the initial information that you input when adding a new firearm to the inventory. The cool thing about this is that after you have input the information it brings up a running list of the firearms you have in a column to the left, which you can click on and it will take you directly to the info for the gun you have chosen.  Other things like barrel length, twist rate, sights, etc. can also be input into the system, which when you have more than one of a specific firearm and there are differences between the two you can keep all of that info sorted.

                                      

Under the Firearm tab there is also an option for accessories so you know what holsters, mags, and lights you have with the firearm.  I know, for myself, I have multiple magazines for each firearm that accepts magazines, and several different holsters that I use.  This is just a nice way to keep track of all of the gear that you have for that specific firearm.  If you end up selling it later on down the road, you will already have a list of what gear you have that can be sold with it.

The next tab I believe would be great for FFL's and private collectors - it is the Pictures tab.  I can understand how, in a large inventory of firearms, it can be easy to mix up which one is which when there are multiples of the same model that are available in different colors.  Having the option to add a picture of each specific firearm, and having it connected to all of the information you have already input into this database, in my opinion, would make it much easier to keep tabs on everything in your inventory.

The Purchase/Sold tab is another great option to have.  Honestly, I wish I had this program for all of the firearms that I have sold over the past couple of years.  It keeps a detailed record of the purchases and sales that you have made - ideal for dealers who have a large volume of sales every day.

Moving on the the Ammo tab, I was surprised to see how detailed the information for your current ammo supply could be.  It is really easy to add an ammo type, and when you do, information like brand, bullet weight, caliber, and other information can be input and then shown on the main screen of the ammo tab.  This is really cool because you can also input how much of each caliber, bullet weight, and brand that you have, which then gives you a running tally.  What's even better is that you can go in and highlight the specific round you used at the range that day and simply type in how many rounds you used, hit the subtract button, and your number is automatically updated for that round.

Also, for you reloaders out there, the ammo tab has a very cool option.  It gives you the ability to input all of the information for the rounds that you are currently loading, and designates your reloads with an asterisk so they are quickly identified.  The information that you can input includes, C.O.L., powder brand, powder weight, brand of bullet, and other options. This in my opinion, as a reloader, is a great tool to have because you can add notes for the rounds that you are reloading.

The Maintenance Tab is an option that would rarely ever be used by me, but I am sure that anyone who likes to keep a detailed record of cleanings, parts replacements, and other maintenance, this it would be a great way to record what you have done or have had done, and the cost of the maintenance.

As someone who typically scours the internet looking for the best deals before making a purchase (even though the current market there are very few to be found), I appreciate the fact that there is a Deals Tab. In the top section of the deals tab there is a running list directly from SlickGuns.com and then below has folders that contain addresses to many different firearms sites where you can usually find a good deal.  This is a great idea and is something that I am sure I will check a couple times a day.

Overall, I am really impressed with the MyGunDB program. It is very easy to navigate and quickly pickup on how to input information into it, and just as easily retrieve and modify the information that you have saved in the program. I believe that it would be great tool for FFL's and major collectors.  However, for guys like myself with a smaller collection, it is a bit overkill to have the whole program.  It's more than I need.  What would be awesome to see, would be an Ammo Database program for a smaller fee.  This is something that I know I would use quite a bit and it would help me keep much better tabs on where I am at with my current ammo supply.

Full registration for the program is $44.95 and Basic Registration is $24.95, both of which I believe are fair prices for a program that covers as much as it does and makes maintaining a record of everything you have much easier.

The difference between the levels of the program are as follows:

Full version has NO limits.
Free version is limited to 10 firearms
Basic only disables Ammo, Maintenance, and Holsters tabs, A&D reports, and allows 3 images per firearm

(There is a mobile app available for both the iPhone and Android.  I will be downloading the iPhone version in the near future; once I have a little time to mess around with it, I will be sure to post a review of it for any of you who may be interested.)